Many fashion brands have decided to remove the prized mohair fibre from their collections. What moved them was a Peta investigation into the torture of Angora goats on farms in South Africa.
The images released by animal rights organisation Peta to expose the torture inflicted on Angora goats on farms in South Africa — the world's largest producer of mohair fabric — are powerful and deeply disturbing. The atrocious mistreatment of conscious goats, many still very young, has also shocked a number of fashion companies, which have announced they will drop mohair from their collections. These violations of animal rights are reminiscent of those affecting another animal used in clothing production: minks farmed in Italy for their fur (also brought to light by a non-profit organisation, in that case Essere Animali), and they underline the need to move ever closer to a model of sustainable and ethical fashion — one that respects all living creatures.
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While the sheen and softness of these animals' fleece are widely known, very little has been understood until now about the way shearing is carried out in order to obtain the prized fibre used for jumpers, coats and other winter clothing. For this reason, Peta Asia decided to investigate the issue by sending undercover operatives to farms: the results of the investigation proved horrifying.
Warning: the images in the video may be distressing
In all twelve farms where the investigation was carried out — there are around a thousand across the country — the goats suffer extensive mistreatment at the hands of farmers who, paid by the piece rather than by the hour, carry out shearing operations with no regard for the animals' wellbeing. From the first months of life, goats are dragged by their legs or horns, causing them spinal fractures, and are similarly wounded or even killed by shearing scissors. In the investigation, Peta speaks of "systematic suffering" that leads to the death of around 80 per cent of goats after shearing, while 25 per cent do not even survive long enough to reach that stage.
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Following the violent scenes shown in Peta's investigation, many fashion brands have decided to ban the use of mohair in their garments. Leading the way have been mainly some of the best-known names in fast fashion, where production takes place as quickly and cheaply as possible in order to ride the wave of current trends. Accessorize, Banana Republic, Bershka, Cos, Dr Martens, Esprit, Gap, H&M, Mango, Primark, Pull & Bear, Zara and many others: these are just some of the more than 70 brands that will remove mohair from their collections by 2020.
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This represents an important signal from the fashion world, which is pushing back against a textile industry still too firmly anchored to the outdated production processes that have dominated the industrial model until now. Consumers, increasingly guided by responsible and conscious purchasing choices, are also playing their part.