A tour of the Aeolian archipelago, from Lipari to Vulcano. How to get there, points of interest and beaches, for a holiday on these Sicilian islands so unique they are a heritage of all humanity.
Swept by the wind – hence their name –, fired by volcanoes and lapped by the sea: the Aeolian Islands off the coast of Sicily, in the province of Messina, are a paradise for many. Few people live here, yet despite the hardships they do not leave these remarkably fascinating lands, which in 2000 were declared a world heritage site by Unesco. Not just crystal-clear sea, but volcanoes to explore, ancient cultures to rediscover, local products to savour. We visited them to point out the special places you cannot miss.
Read also: A tour of Etna, to discover the volcano that shaped this corner of Sicily
Lipari, the largest and most populous of the Aeolian Islands, is busy and welcoming in summer. Stepping off the hydrofoil and walking along the main street, you find yourself in a typical, well-kept and lively seaside resort. Here a myriad of boat trips and excursions catch the eye: the main activity for those who live on Lipari is indeed taking tourists to discover the various islands of the archipelago by sea. However, it is worth assessing the options carefully, or you risk ending up among hundreds of people on a vessel with no safety provisions whatsoever.
The real island – the one that is fascinating and unlike any other – is old Lipari, discovered by climbing up to the castle. From Via Garibaldi you ascend along Via Concordato via a staircase that in summer is a titanic undertaking. At the top, the first thing to greet visitors is the cathedral, which conceals further magnificent surprises. For one euro, the Norman cloister is an absolute must – simple and wonderful. Then there is the Archaeological Museum, divided into several sections: meticulously curated, it is a true gem – particularly the section dedicated to the theatrical terracottas of Greek comedy by Aristophanes and Menander. Everything up here is perfect. All that remains is to wander among the ancient ruins, and looking around you can find fruit trees and numerous Lipari cats resting among the artefacts.
Vulcano is the first island you encounter if you arrive from Milazzo by hydrofoil or ferry. Many come here to take advantage of the therapeutic properties of the warm waters and mud baths: there are natural thermal springs accessible for just 3 euros. If you decide to visit them, remember to bring flip-flops (otherwise you risk burning your feet) and to wear a swimsuit you don't mind ruining – it will be damaged and will afterwards carry a smell that is very hard to remove. The waters here are rich in sulphur.
Another unmissable activity is "climbing" the volcano: unlike Stromboli, the effort here is less demanding and no particular stamina is required (it can take between 40 minutes and an hour). If you are lucky and the weather is fine, you can enjoy a magnificent landscape. Afterwards you can relax on the beach: Vulcano is one of the few Aeolian Islands that has, in certain spots, sandy beaches (black sand) rather than the typical stones.
Remote, still wild and fascinating, they lie about two hours by boat from Lipari: Alicudi and Filicudi are still places where it is possible to understand what life on an island in the middle of nowhere – or nearly – is like. Here it is easy to see donkeys passing by carrying loads; cars are virtually absent, as are roads, replaced by mule tracks, footpaths, steps and terracing. Once you arrive, you are captivated by the stillness, the scents, the blue of the sea and sky.
The most fascinating thing is the very experience of reaching them and witnessing this world. It is a pleasure to explore both islands without a fixed destination, stumbling upon the small local churches, the wild nature, the handful of inhabitants. Of the two, Filicudi – which has a proper road – is the larger, and is able to offer travellers accommodation facilities. It is in the waters near Filicudi that the Grotta del Bue Marino is found, inside which the sea is rich in dinoflagellates: marine microbes containing luciferin, a substance that produces a beam of light. If you approach by boat (you cannot enter with a motorboat), the effect is incredibly beautiful.
No less beautiful are Stromboli, Salina and Panarea. The first is ideal for trekking enthusiasts: climbing to the summit of the volcano is an incredible experience, especially if undertaken in the afternoon so as to enjoy the sunset at the top. To reach the island from Lipari, Lunaquinta offers a quality service and works with certified, specialist guides for the ascent of the volcano. Bear in mind, though, that this is an excursion of around five hours' walking, so it is not for everyone. But it is worth doing, to experience pure joy and be treated on the boat to typical biscuits and Malvasia wine by Captain Matteo.
Salina is the second largest island in the archipelago and many people go there to enjoy the sunset: from the bay of Pollara, after climbing around 150 steps, the panorama is breathtaking. From here you can also see Filicudi, and the atmosphere is very romantic.
Panarea was, in the recent past, a VIP destination and paradoxically this has not helped people discover its true beauty, which does exist. The least wild of the islands, it is the most "perfect" because it is well-groomed and ready for tourists in search of luxury. But this has caused it to lose that spontaneity we love so much about the Aeolian Islands.