A fascinating and unpredictable presence that has transformed the land and people of this corner of Sicily: the volcano has always been one of the island's defining forces. Tips on how to visit Etna safely.
It is also known as Mongibello, a word made up of two others that both mean "mountain" — one derived from the Latin mons and the other from the Arabic jebel (جبل) — as if to say: the mountain of mountains, the absolute mountain, the highest and most important. We are in Sicily, not far from Catania, and we made the climb ourselves: the unique experience of scaling the volcano par excellence, Etna.
Once you arrive in Sicily and reach Catania, wandering through the city you always have the feeling of being overshadowed by something, of being under its power: on clear days Etna is plainly visible, and with its majestic presence it has shaped the history and future of these lands. At 3,343 metres it is the highest active volcano in Europe, and in 2013 it was inscribed by Unesco on the World Heritage list of Unesco.
Even in the recent past the volcano, along with all its fascination and beauty, has caused no small number of problems for its "fellow inhabitants". Many urban settlements have suffered damage from its eruptions over the years, but it is worth remembering that after these events the land has also become incredibly fertile. The vine, the pistachio — the one from Bronte is particularly famous —, the apple and the Etna pear all thrive here. The volcano, under constant monitoring, remains an unmissable destination for anyone visiting the area, in every season: in summer to see the lush vegetation, in winter to enjoy the spectacle of the snow-capped summit, perhaps ascending to altitude on the cable car. What is important to know is that before setting out on a hike in this area it is advisable to rely on authorised, certified guides. You may indeed encounter unlicensed operators who can certainly not guarantee safety and professionalism. We got to know Etna and the surrounding area thanks to a half-day tour organised by Etna est, guided with passion and expertise by Elia, a geologist specialising in volcanology.
You set off from your accommodation — the organisers collect participants and, if necessary, provide trekking boots and windproof jackets — and head towards the Valle del Bove. You find yourself before a dark expanse set between lush vegetation and a valley that takes its name from the fact that, seen from above, the walls surrounding it have the shape of an ox's horns. This valley, whose landscape is so captivating precisely because it is so unusual, was formed after a massive collapse that occurred 8,000–9,000 years ago. This was previously the most stable flank of the volcano, but during an eruption part of the material fell into the sea, triggering a tsunami with 30-metre waves that reached across the entire Mediterranean as far as Libya and Syria. Today the Valle del Bove measures eight kilometres in length, five kilometres in width and one kilometre in depth. This gives a clear sense of how enormous the section of volcano that broke away must have been.
After the valley, the visit continues — equipped with helmets and torches provided by the staff — inside a lava tube cave: another unusual environment, rich in signs that tell the story of this area and of the volcano. Volcanic caves form when the advancing lava flow cools on the surface, dropping from 1,200 degrees to 600–700 degrees. During this process, the lava beneath continues to maintain its temperature and keep flowing, gradually carving out a tunnel that becomes a lava cave.
Then, along the route that climbs to 2,000 metres in altitude, you discover two of the most significant lateral eruptions in history, those of 1669 and 1928. The first, which originated at 900 metres near the town of Nicolosi, destroyed 15 villages and reached the western part of Catania, extending the coastline by 2 kilometres. Where the lava entered the sea, the port of Catania now stands. The 1928 eruption started at 1,330 metres and completely destroyed the town of Mascali, which was subsequently rebuilt on higher ground so that no future lava flow could damage it again.
All around you are surrounded by rich, flourishing vegetation: broom can be seen everywhere, known locally as "rocksplitter" because it is the first plant to grow after an eruption; here there is a variety called etnensis which, unlike others, grows large enough to become a tree of up to 14 metres. There are also forests of chestnut, pine and beech trees, and among the wildlife the nocturnal wildcat, which is difficult to spot because it is wary of people, and the fox, which will actually let you approach, as well as the porcupine and the hare.
Then at last you reach the volcano and its craters. The scene is unique: it is cold, we are at 2,000 metres, and everything around has changed. The vegetation, the air, the atmosphere.
At the summit of the volcano there are currently five constantly active summit vents; this does not mean they emit lava, but gases — between 12,000 and 14,000 tonnes per day. The five craters are the new south-east crater, which began forming in 2011, the old south-east crater, the Bocca Nuova, the Voragine and the north-east crater, which represents the highest vent on the volcano. There are also 260 lateral craters produced by summit and lateral eruptions. Summit eruptions are always active because their conduits run perpendicular to the magma chamber, allowing gas and magma to flow freely. At other times, however, the magma finds a lateral weak point in the main conduit and rises laterally, splitting the rock and reaching the surface, creating the eruption, building the crater, and when the eruption ends the magma does not descend back into the magma chamber — because the conduit is oblique — but remains and cools, forming a plug. So during a future ascent the magma will no longer choose this route but will force its way through five or ten metres away, splitting the ground and giving shape to a new crater. These technical details help us appreciate how ancient the history of this volcano is, and how its force can still transform the land and the landscape.
It is a visit packed with information, stimulation and new discoveries. The advice is to give yourself enough time to explore the volcano properly. A full day is ideal, so that you can explore all the craters and experience the volcano at different times of day. Watching a sunrise or sunset over Etna is a magnificent experience: you feel as though you are on another planet. Different and utterly beautiful.