Vienna never fails to impress, blending the magnificence of its past with the modernity of its services. A tour through the highlights of a city that is environmentally friendly and consistently ranks at the top of quality-of-life indices.
Vienna is a city of constant surprises: elegant and forward-thinking, it offers a great deal to its residents and visitors alike, above all in terms of culture and services. Breathtakingly beautiful museums, some of the most efficient public transport networks around, and well-tended parks that transform the Austrian capital into a green oasis for those who love the outdoors. A tour through the delights of art, culinary traditions and everyday life to discover the capital of Austria — the perfect destination for an autumn trip.
The Austrian capital has many points of pride, and its commitment to the environment is certainly one of them. Today, almost half of the city's total area consists of green spaces, and mobility is strongly green: you will notice that there are very few private cars on the streets, and that even a large proportion of the taxis are green taxis. If you love two wheels, you should know that Vienna's cycle path network spans 1,300 kilometres, with a generous availability of hire points for both standard and electric bicycles to explore the city. More recently, the option of "sharing" electric scooters has been added: you will find a great many of them on the streets, used by Viennese residents and tourists alike as they zip between the city's landmarks. A quick way to reach Vienna's many attractions.
It is partly for this reason that it has been named the most liveable city in the world by the international consultancy firm Mercer, which carries out an annual study assessing the quality of life in 231 cities across the globe. So it was that in 2018 too, the results of the study awarded Vienna top marks for the ninth consecutive time. The study assessed the political, social and economic climate, healthcare services, educational opportunities, and infrastructure such as the public transport network, water and electricity supply. It also compared leisure provision — restaurants, theatres, cinemas and sports facilities — the availability of consumer goods ranging from food to cars, and environmental conditions, from the availability of green spaces to air pollution.
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Another pleasant surprise in the city concerns what locals call "white gold" – that is, water: dotted around the city are 900 fixed drinking fountains to quench your thirst on sweltering summer days and throughout the year. These are supplemented by a number of mobile fountains that are connected to fire hydrants in the busiest spots, as needed. It goes without saying that this results in significantly lower consumption of plastic bottles.
Finally, despite the city's extremely modern appearance, Vienna also holds the record as Austria's largest organic farmer: it manages more than 860 hectares of organic farmland spread across three municipal farms.
Walking through the city, you quickly realise that stepping into one of the countless cafés and konditorei in Vienna is an unmissable ritual, especially on autumn and winter days, when the sun sets early and you feel like sitting somewhere warm for a chat, perhaps in one of the many period establishments. The choice is vast, but we recommend settling into a historic patisserie. Each one has its own speciality, and it is genuinely hard to be disappointed: Demel is best visited right when it opens, at breakfast time, to avoid the long queues. Order a melange and a slice of Sacher with whipped cream; many people head to the even more famous Café Sacher, but at Demel the cake is softer and the setting is truly beautiful and atmospheric – and a large glass window lets you watch the many pastry chefs at work. At Oberlaa, you can't go wrong: try the tart with lemon cream and meringue – delicious. The surroundings here are simpler, but it is still a pleasant place to treat yourself to a sweet break. Avoid the well-known Café Central (with its fabulous marble columns) and Kameel (renowned for aperitivo with spritz): they are certainly lovely, but you may have to wait hours for a seat – perhaps better to enjoy the city instead!
If you are an art lover, Vienna is certainly one of the European capitals that can claim to be outstanding in terms of the quality and quantity of its museums. It is hard to say which is the most beautiful and best organised, because all of them, each in its own way, are exceptional – perhaps the most remarkable you will ever visit. We toured nearly all of them in the city, and here we highlight the ones we consider unmissable.
The Albertina is the museum housed in what was once the largest residential palace of the Habsburgs: it is known for its painted staircase, where a reproduction of the most important work in the current exhibition is displayed. Among other shows, there is currently an extraordinary exhibition dedicated to Claude Monet (until 6 January) and a monographic show devoted to American street photographer Helen Levitt (until 27 January). The care taken with the layout, the precision and overall perfection make it a place where you can "lose" an entire afternoon with great joy.
The Kunsthistorisches Museum, the Museum of Art History, is not an exaggeration to describe as breathtaking: the grandeur, magnificence and beauty of the building are almost a match for the exceptional artworks housed within it. It is one of the most beautiful in the world, without doubt, and what struck us most here were the collections of ancient Greek and Roman art, truly stunning. As you move from room to room, do not forget to glance out of the windows – in some rooms the view is extraordinary. At the moment, a magnificent exhibition is dedicated to Bruegel, until 18 January.
To visit the Belvedere, upper and lower, you will need to move slightly away from the very centre of the city. These two palaces, connected by splendid gardens, were the summer residence of Prince Eugene of Savoy and now house Austrian art from the Middle Ages to the present day. The Upper Belvedere is home to the greatest local artists, including Klimt (yes, The Kiss is here), Schiele and Kokoschka, as well as major Impressionist masters of worldwide renown. The Lower Belvedere, meanwhile, is home to the medieval collection (absolutely not to be missed) and temporary exhibitions – right now, for example, there is a tribute to Schiele until 17 February. On sunny days, idling in the gardens between visits to the two museums is one of the most rewarding things you can do.
If you are still not sated with beauty, head to the museum quarter and visit the Leopold Museum: its appearance is extremely modern compared to those visited so far, and from the outside it might even disappoint, but inside it houses the world's largest collection of works by Egon Schiele, along with other paintings by representatives of the Vienna Secession that make it undoubtedly one of the city's unmissable sights.
A final recommendation goes to the Mak, the Museum of Applied Arts, where you will be amazed at how objects such as carpets, glasses and chairs become utterly fascinating thanks to an imaginative and unconventional display. Always home to temporary exhibitions as well, it is a wonderful place to spend a Sunday, perhaps stopping at the welcoming bistrot inside or browsing the design shop.
There are many more art-related recommendations to make; one hidden gem, for instance, is the Globe Museum: if you are reading this article, you probably love travelling, and so this is a stop not to be missed.
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Vienna is an extremely modern city, yet it retains an elegant, almost regal appearance – a legacy of the imperial era, especially when the sun goes down. The city's lighting is indeed almost as it was then: the glow is soft thanks to the use of lamp posts, and the main monuments become even more beautiful through plays of light and shadow conceived with absolute mastery. The town hall, the Rathaus, the Karlskirche, the church dedicated to Carlo Borromeo, the Wiener Staatsoper, the opera house – these are just some of the city-centre monuments that will take your breath away. If you enjoy walking, venture along the river and make your way to the church of San Francesco d'Assisi: its structure will leave you speechless, especially in the evening. It is truly worth the walk.
Walking is one of the simplest and most wonderful things you can do in the city. Wandering around, you notice how well-kept and charming Vienna is, and it is hard to choose which corner is the most picturesque and distinctive. Almost right in the city centre, head to Franziskanerplatz, which in its simplicity is perfect: here stands the Katholische Franziskanerkirche, Renaissance in style on the outside and Baroque within; opposite it stands a statue dedicated to the Rosenkranz-Sühnekreuzzug – literally, the Rosary Expiatory Crusade – and on one side of the square there is a delightful tiny café, the Kleines, which has outdoor tables equipped with blankets to keep you warm in winter while you drink your coffee.
Another atmospheric corner is Minoritenplatz, occupied almost entirely by the imposing Minorite church — the church of the Italian community in Vienna, consecrated to Our Lady of the Snow. The building is quite distinctive, and inside it houses a mosaic reproducing Leonardo's Last Supper.
On a tour of the city's most stunning squares, a mandatory stop is Judenplatz, h