Among the sinuous hills of Veneto, between vineyards and villages waiting to be discovered, an itinerary through the Valdobbiadene area: a land of unique landscapes, so much so that it has been put forward as a Unesco world heritage site.
A land of dreamy, picture-postcard landscapes, capable of offering tranquillity as well as precious artistic heritage and the excellence of Italian wine: we head to Valdobbiadene for a tour through villages, wineries and historic sites.
These are lands of vineyards — outstanding ones — that have made the fortune of the region and of this area in particular: in Valdobbiadene one cannot avoid talking about Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Docg, but on a tour through this part of the Province of Treviso there are many stops to plan, in search of small yet magnificent architectural and artistic gems. We begin by highlighting the parish church of S. Pietro in Feletto: from the outside it may not strike you as particularly remarkable, but as soon as you step under the portico you can admire the numerous frescoes that decorate it. The most celebrated and curious is the one dedicated to the "Christ of Sunday", whose message for the faithful is clear: on Sundays one does not work, and those who do so on the Lord's day cause Christ to suffer — struck by tools of labour, he bleeds from his wounds. This subject delivers a precise warning to the people while also depicting the implements and tools of rural life. A stop here to admire the panorama of the gentle hills of Conegliano is a must.
For those with a nostalgic streak, we recommend a visit to the Molinetto della croda in the Lierza valley: this is a characteristic example of 17th-century rural architecture whose name refers to the foundations of the original structure, which rest on bare rock — known as the "croda" of the mountain. It ground grain until 1953 and now simply bears witness to what life was once like, marked by these labours tied to the land. Its setting, beside the water and amid woodland, makes it an enchanting and restful place. From here, numerous paths set off through the hills and vineyards.
In another enchanting spot, in Farra di Soligo, stands the church of San Vigilio, which looks down from above over Col San Martino and the entire valley as far as and beyond the River Piave. The structure is truly evocative, and its bell tower — perhaps a little squat — makes it unique. Unfortunately it is difficult to find it open, as this only happens on a few special occasions. If you walk around the building, however, on one side of the church an iron gate leads directly into splendid vineyards. During the Christmas period it is usually illuminated, making it even more beautiful.
In Susegana, climbing a gentle hill, you reach the Castello di SanSalvatore, a structure dating back to the second half of the 1200s that stands out against the hills of the Prealps — a position that was once strategically important for controlling the fords on the Piave, dominating the town and the entire Veneto plain as far as the lagoon. Today, after the heavy bombardments of the First World War, only part of the castle remains, but the atmosphere is still that of a bygone era: the well-tended gardens, the tower, the statues. A magnificent setting for guided tours, receptions and cultural events.
In the largest and most populous town in the area, Conegliano, there are in our view two unmissable stops: inside the Duomo, the altarpiece placed in the presbytery, recently restored, executed by Giambattista Cima da Conegliano in 1493, depicting the Madonna and Child with angels, among the saints John the Baptist, Nicholas, Catherine of Alexandria, Apollonia, Francis and Peter; and, also beside the cathedral, the Sala dei Battuti, with a cycle of frescoes carried out for the most part by Francesco da Milano on two separate occasions.
In the Province of Treviso, as mentioned, the winemaking tradition is significant both from an economic and a socio-cultural and tourist perspective. This area boasts one of the oldest wine discovery routes in Italy, what was once known as the "Strada del vino bianco" and today, redrawn, has taken the name "Strada del Prosecco e vini dei colli Conegliano Valdobbiadene".
Planning a journey, by bicycle or by car, through vineyards, hills and wineries is the best way to experience a territory of breathtaking beauty. Among the hundreds of wineries that populate the entire area and produce the finest expressions of "Prosecco" — as those less in the know simply call it — we have chosen to highlight one winery that, in addition to making an excellent wine, has sustainability of its production, and therefore of its business, at heart.
The winery is La Tordera in Vidor, which through the "Naturale balance" programme aims to achieve an increasingly green form of viticulture, in harmony with the environment and sustainable from an environmental, economic and social point of view. It starts with the Casa Clima Wine certification, to obtain which the environmental compatibility of the building and living comfort, energy and water consumption in wine production, the choice of packaging and also the consequences of transport were all assessed.
The company covers 70 per cent of its own energy requirements using renewable sources. It has also joined the innovative Rafcycle programme, a system for recycling label waste. Furthermore, the personalised bottle, created specifically for the company, weighs only 720 grams and is composed of over 80 per cent recycled glass: this allows a lower melting temperature and therefore a lower release of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere. For packaging, 100 per cent recycled paper and virgin pine wood dried without any further treatment are used. The installation of photovoltaic panels on the winery roof gives the company a high degree of energy self-sufficiency. As regards water use, the water employed for washing the tanks and during certain bottling stages is reduced and strictly rationalised. The timber-built winery also guarantees excellent insulation and ensures there is no heat exchange between the outside and inside, thus maintaining the spaces at the appropriate temperatures. The company's inhabited spaces are heated entirely by wood-burning boilers. The use of fuels is reserved solely for agricultural machinery, while efforts are made to optimise their use as much as possible.
To discover the winery's wines and hear the owning family talk about their commitment to the environment, experiences are organised — tastings with something extra — which we recommend as a refreshment stop after visiting the area.