Spending a few days in Urbino means taking possession, for a little while, of the beauty of art and nature: set against the gentle landscape of the Marche hills, we propose a short tour that uncovers lesser-known corners of the city and two villages just a few kilometres away, sure to surprise you with their museums, panoramas, good food and cultural offerings. All of it, calmly and without hurry.

Artworks in the two Oratories

They are not the first choice for tourists arriving in Urbino, but in our view they are two unmissable stops in the Unesco World Heritage city: we are talking about the Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista and the Oratorio di San Giuseppe. Very different from one another, they will enchant you, albeit in different ways. The first is located just below the Fortezza Albornoz, and while the restored façade on the outside is nothing special, the interior preserves, beneath a magnificent ship's-keel timber vault, an imposing fresco cycle depicting the Crucifixion of Christ on the wall behind the high altar, and the Stories of the Life of Saint John the Baptist along the right-hand side wall — masterpieces signed by the brothers Lorenzo and Jacopo Salimbeni da San Severino Marche, dated 1416. What is most striking are the colours, especially of the Crucifixion: brilliant, luminous and vivid, they flood the entire room with light. The narrative power achieved through the painted scenes is extraordinary: pay close attention to the despair of the Magdalene — it looks real. On the better-preserved right-hand wall, meanwhile, look for the shimmer produced by the angels' robes, painted and embellished with stones. Just a few metres away, the Oratorio di San Giuseppe houses the Presepe di Federico Brandani of 1560: this is an imposing work in stucco by a leading exponent of Marche sculptural Mannerism, truly remarkable.

The splendid fresco by the brothers Lorenzo and Jacopo Salimbeni da San Severino Marche in the Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista. ©Simona Denise Deiana

The finest panorama over the city

For many, Urbino is the ideal city of the Renaissance; what is certain is that a general harmony defines it. If visited in summer, it is particularly quiet and uncrowded with tourists: it is a university town populated during the academic year but one that has gradually been abandoned by its residents, who have moved to other centres in the Marche. This has unfortunately also led to a shortage of local craftsmanship, for instance, which is a shame when you think of the arts that once flourished here. It remains without doubt a must for lovers of Italian art. If you want to admire it and see it at its best, in our view the finest panorama is the one enjoyed from Fortezza Albornoz: from the statue of Raphael, head left following the signs, and in less than 5 minutes you will be at the park from where you can take wonderful photographs, especially at sunset. The advice here is to lie down for a few minutes under the pear trees and enjoy the city from above. The fortress inside is rather abandoned and bleak — leave it be — but do take a couple of shots of it in the evening when it is lit up: it is worth it. Another option is to climb the Torricino of Palazzo Ducale, which offers another thoroughly impressive view of the surrounding area.

The splendid panorama of Urbino seen from Fortezza Albornoz. ©Simona Denise Deiana

The perfection of Palazzo Ducale

It is never a trivial recommendation to suggest visiting a place that houses extraordinary works of art and is itself an example of architectural perfection. Palazzo Ducale in Urbino is all of this and is home to the Galleria nazionale delle Marche. You will notice straight away that it is a well-maintained and carefully curated museum, and every part of it enchants: the staircases leading to the ancient ducal apartments, the windows overlooking the city, even the underground rooms. There are many masterpieces here not to be missed; above all, linger over: the Flagellation of Christ by Piero della Francesca, La muta by Raphael — who was born here in Urbino — the Città ideale, the Studiolo particolare by Benedetto da Maiano — absolutely extraordinary. Temporary exhibitions are also periodically staged on the ground floor in the area adjacent to the hanging garden, along with the Cappellina del perdono and the Tempietto delle muse, all enchanting. Until 8 September, visit "Scultura aurea": it is a spectacular exhibition, both for its installation and for the works of jewellery art on display. Even if you are not a fan of goldsmithing, do not hesitate: go in and let yourself be amazed, as we were.

Raphael Sanzio's masterpiece La muta or Portrait of a noblewoman. It is said that the subject looks so sad because she has just lost her husband. ©Simona Denise Deiana

Festivals and events in the square

A much-anticipated event is coming up in Urbino: the kite festival, which this year takes place from 26 August to 1 September. It all stems from Giovanni Pascoli's famous poem "L'aquilone", written in memory of the time he spent in Urbino as a pupil at the Collegio degli Scolopi. Born among the Contrade, the festival revives the tradition of building kites, often in the classic manner: waxed paper, ditch canes, flour paste and plenty of imagination. The festival reaches its high point in the competition between the Contrade on the slopes of the Cesane mountains, in an attempt to fly a kite the highest: you will be able to admire hundreds of kites in flight, right in front of that famous windy Urbino. Every year around mid-August there is the Festa del Duca, which also has a winter version in December; on both occasions the splendours of Renaissance Urbino are relived. A wonderful opportunity to immerse yourself in the atmosphere that made the city unique.

A few kilometres from Urbino: Urbania and Fossombrone

Visiting this part of the Marche truly means following an itinerary of beauty. A few kilometres from Urbino, reachable also by public transport (from Urbino there are coaches almost every hour and they are roughly 40 kilometres away), are Urbania and Fossombrone. The former was called Castel delle Ripe in the Middle Ages and Casteldurante from 1284, and stands on a bend of the river Metauro. It is a charming and well-kept little town, and you should not leave without visiting Palazzo Ducale and the Teatro Bramante, dedicated to the famous artist born not far from here. There is also a Chiesa dei morti with some rather striking mummies, but a little further on, on the Ponte del riscatto, you can take wonderful photographs of the city. In Urbania, as throughout the area, the food is divine: not to be missed here are the crostoli and passatelli.

The panorama of Urbania, which was once called Casteldurante. ©Simona Denise Deiana

Fossombrone welcomes you with the scenic Ponte della Concordia over the Metauro, but that is not the only stop to plan in this village, which at first glance seems to be nothing more than a faded memory of its former glory, yet can still astonish, even if it requires a little effort. Many of the places worth visiting are not open to the public; you need to telephone and book a visit with the staff who manage them. Be sure to include the Casa museo quadreria Cesarini in your itinerary: a true gem that encapsulates the entire passion of a local notary and art collector. Here, the paintings by Anselmo Bucci, a prominent member of the Novecento movement, are wonderful. Also stop at the Museo archeologico and the Pinacoteca civica. The church of San Filippo, on the other hand, is always open: it is splendid, an example of sumptuous and well-preserved Baroque that will enchant you. If you have time and your own transport, venture as far as the Marmitte dei giganti on the Metauro, where nature has truly given of its best.