She holds him tight against her chest as he, greedily, suckles. She strokes his head, her gaze fixed on the half-closed eyes of her three-month-old, who now, satisfied, falls asleep. The little brother, around four years old, plays a short distance away. He snaps off branches, swings on lianas, runs, jumps, rolls in the grass. Meanwhile the father, a few metres away, enjoys the shade leaning against a large trunk and keeps watch over his family. Watching them, it feels as though you have returned to something lost long ago — something that here, in this dense forest, far from everything we know, far from everything we have been taught, suddenly comes back to mind. And so even the camera becomes superfluous. You set it down. And you simply watch. You lose yourself in those dark eyes that study you intently. You lose yourself in this primordial place, which offers you a profound emotion, buried for millennia in the unconscious and now resurfacing. There is no need to take photographs. This image, these moments, stay inside you. Those eyes, those gestures — so similar to our own — will become part of the indelible memories of a lifetime.

An encounter with mountain gorillas alone makes a trip to Uganda worthwhile. They live in the Virunga mountains, on the border between Rwanda, Congo and Uganda. For years, it was only possible to reach the primates from Bwindi National Park, declared a Unesco World Heritage Site and once known as the "Impenetrable Forest." And indeed this is one of Africa's forests with the greatest biological diversity. In addition to around 320 gorillas (half the entire world population), the park is home to 120 species of mammals (11 of them primates), 350 species of birds and 200 species of butterflies. Its 330 square kilometres have managed to resist the encroachment of the tea and banana plantations that surround them, and to this day the dense vegetation remains the defining feature of this area, protected since 1991.

To reach the gorillas, you must venture into this green sea and trust to luck. An encounter is virtually guaranteed, but it is impossible to predict in advance how far you will need to walk to reach one of the four family groups that live here. At the park entrance, the rangers — who will accompany you throughout the trek — explain what it is essential to know and make sure that everyone is in good health. Indeed, participation is forbidden even if you have a common cold, as you could infect the primates. Visitors are then divided into small groups, each assigned to a particular family. The trekking is quite demanding because the vegetation is thick and the humidity very high. But the intensity of the moment you are about to experience helps you overcome any difficulty. The time spent among the gorillas is one hour. And it will be one of the most extraordinary hours of your life.

Uganda, however, is not only gorillas. It is also chimpanzees. Kibale Park is home to these primates, who are even more human-like than gorillas. They are difficult to spot because they stay in trees up to 60 metres tall, but it can happen that, irritated by your presence, they amuse themselves by throwing down the small fruits they are feeding on. Besides the primates, many other animals can be encountered in Uganda's protected areas, starting with Queen Elizabeth National Park. The area, which encompasses numerous habitats, stretches around the Kazinga Channel linking lakes George and Edward. Many animal species live there: lions (which only here have the unusual habit of climbing trees), leopards, hippopotamuses, elephants, buffaloes, antelopes and warthogs. Spotting them, during jeep safaris or while sailing along the channel, is virtually certain.

There is another place of great natural interest: Murchison Falls National Park, also the largest in the country (3,840 km²). It is divided in two by the Victoria Nile which, before continuing its course towards the Mediterranean, gives rise to the great and spectacular Murchison Falls. They can be reached on foot and by boat. The river passes through a gorge only 6 metres wide and plunges 40 metres. Especially when sailing downstream from the wild and powerful falls, you can observe hippopotamuses, buffaloes, giraffes, elephants, big cats, an extraordinarily rich birdlife and the gigantic and fearsome Nile crocodile. Not far from the park lies the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, where it is possible to observe white rhinos at very close range; they are bred here with a view to reintroducing them into the national parks. Another moving encounter, this. But, as we said, it will be the one with the gorillas that is imprinted in your most cherished memories forever.

Not to be missed

Visiting Lake Mburo National Park, in the Mbarara district. It covers an area of 260 sq km and is Uganda's smallest national park. But not its least interesting. It is part of a region rich in lakes that give rise to a complex of extensive wetlands. The presence, among other animals, of crocodiles and hippos attracts many birds, including the African marabou stork and the grey crowned crane, Uganda's national symbol.

A few days of relaxation on the Ssese Islands, on Lake Victoria. Easily reached by ferry from Entebbe, there are around eighty of them. A true retreat that remains largely undiscovered by tourists. In the small lodges on the white sandy beaches the atmosphere is relaxed and very laid-back, the food excellent and strictly local. The little islands are a paradise for birdwatchers and botanists. It is possible to take easy walks, on foot or by hiring a bicycle, to visit the villages and the pineapple, banana and coffee plantations.

Stopping at the Equator Point on the road that runs south-west from Kampala towards Mbarara. Between the towns of Mpigi and Masaka, the equator line is marked, on both sides of the road, by two circular monuments bearing the inscription "Uganda Equator". It is worth taking a photo at zero degrees latitude. It doesn't happen every day. In the small shop you can buy handicraft items to help African children.

What we like

Feasting on bananas. Uganda produces vast quantities of them, in many different varieties. Along the roads, large bunches are sold, carried in precarious balance on rickety bicycles on their way to the town markets. Bananas are also served as a dessert, caramelised or flambéed with liqueur.

Watching the sunset on the banks of the Nile, near Murchison Falls. The white foam, formed by the force of the falls, floating on the water turns shades of red and pink. Quite a sight!

Stopping between one park and the next to get a close look at the long-horned cattle. A rack of horns in reverse for these bovines that date back 17,000 years, are domesticated and belong to the Bahima herders.

Good to know

To visit Uganda you need a passport and a visa, and a yellow fever vaccination is compulsory. Straddling the equator, the climate does not vary greatly throughout the year and is always pleasant. The dry season, the best time to visit the country, coincides with our winter and summer holidays.

For those wishing to encounter the gorillas, a pair of gardening gloves is essential, along with light but sturdy trousers (an old pair of jeans, for example), a long-sleeved shirt or top, a light waterproof jacket and trekking boots. The cuisine is fairly good, though not very varied. Freshwater fish from lakes and rivers are very common. The fruit is excellent.