• Vegan alternatives to classic materials are increasingly widespread in the market, which is growing ever more receptive.
• After non-violent silk, which allows silkworms to complete their life cycle, vegan silk has also been produced.
• It is derived from the wood pulp of pine and eucalyptus trees sourced from certified, sustainable forests not subject to deforestation.

It is Gen Z driving sustainable textile purchases: 90 per cent of younger consumers are willing to pay more for sustainable items, and as many as 95 per cent actively seek out vegan options. We've long grown accustomed to plant-based materials as leather alternatives, but what do we know about vegan silk?

Non-violent silk

Silk conjures up anything but scenarios that might in some way evoke the idea of violence — yet the fact remains that, to extract the fibre for spinning, silkworm cocoons must be plunged into boiling water to kill the caterpillars inside. It is estimated that more than six thousand silkworms are killed to produce one kilogram of silk, boiled alive inside their own cocoons. It is also estimated that a silk shirt requires 376 litres of water, leaving a severe water footprint on the environment. From India and its zen vibes, however, a type of silk has begun to spread that is defined as ahimsa — that is, non-violent — or peace silk.

The process is essentially the same, except that the larva is allowed to complete its metamorphosis and transform into a butterfly — an operation that means the thread is torn at the point where the butterfly has broken through to emerge. The silk thread, which can reach up to 300 metres in length, is more valuable and easier to spin if it remains intact: "normal" silk therefore remains softer. Non-violent silk is, however, now used extensively in luxury too, and an increasing number of brands are seeking more sustainable alternatives.

Vegan silk

As with leather — a material for which research has already yielded a wealth of alternatives — vegan alternatives are also beginning to emerge on the market for silk, meaning no animal is involved in the process. The main ingredients of Naia™ cellulosic fibre are, in fact, pine and eucalyptus wood pulp: a highly versatile textile material that feels exactly like silk to the touch. Beyond involving no living organisms at any stage of the process, the sustainability of this fibre also lies in its production method: water and solvents are recovered for reuse and recycling to reduce carbon emissions.

We have already discussed polyester and its silk-like qualities: while it does not involve killing silkworms, in its non-recycled form it remains a poorly sustainable choice, being a petroleum derivative. The vegan, cellulosic silk offered by Naia, on the other hand, comes from certified, sustainable forests or plantations; the acetic acid used to treat the fibres is derived from a patented process that takes undifferentiated plastic waste and breaks it down into its basic molecular building blocks. Compared to the standard process, PET is not separated from other plastics: this makes it possible to give new life to a wider range of waste materials, including those that are difficult to dispose of. The entire industrial process is also circular, as water is reused, solvents are safe and fed back into the production cycle; and furthermore, the fibres produced in this way are compostable.

One of Naia™'s key strengths is transparency: the pine and eucalyptus woodlands and plantations are managed sustainably to ensure the protection of ancient or endangered forests — so much so that the brand's commitment to environmental sustainability has also been recognised in the Canopy Hot Button Report 2020. Naia™ has been recognised for its commitment to innovation, also thanks to the recent launch of Naia™ Renew, a circular fibre produced from a portfolio of hard-to-recycle waste materials.

The application in luxury

Gretes is a lingerie brand created by Lithuanian designer Grėtė Švegždaitė who, after studying law, decided to change course and in 2018 made her market debut with a brand of silk hair elastics, subsequently expanding her product portfolio. Growth was rapid, so much so that Gretes earned a place at New York Fashion Week. As success grew, however, so did awareness of the poor sustainability of the silk supply chain.

So Grėtė, who had until then built the entire brand concept on that material, began searching for a greener alternative that could nonetheless deliver the same sensation of luxury and softness — finding it in Naia™ cellulosic fibre. Grėtė Švėgždaitė believes that the drive to replace natural silk with vegan silk will become increasingly widespread, and she has certainly led by example with Gretes, at least as far as the world of luxury is concerned.

"Our purchasing behaviour has already been harmful to nature; therefore, choosing vegan, recycled and sustainably made fabrics, as well as recycling old clothes, shoes or objects, can at least partially offset the damage caused," explains the designer. "It is our duty, as consumers, to push brands in the fashion and luxury world to bring about real change and produce products that are in line with our values." Today only 1 per cent of harvested materials worldwide are recycled — it is time to increase that percentage.