The procedure is called gavage. The geese have their beaks cut off, an unnecessary impediment
to feeding. Their webbed feet are nailed to the
floor, and force-feeding then proceeds unimpeded: 2.7
kg per day of a greasy, salted mash delivered through a long funnel that
penetrates down into the oesophagus, past the crop, right
into the glandular stomach — a traumatic operation that causes
ulcerations — making them develop abnormal, diseased, deformed,
hypertrophic livers: in short, hepatic steatosis is induced.
In the Corriere della Sera of 23 December 1998 we read and
quote: "European Union, foie gras under threat: 'Production method harmful, must change'. This could be the last
Christmas at which gourmets will be able to open their festive dinners with good
old foie gras. It depends on the European Union's scientists
and, above all, on the consequences of their studies. An investigation into the
production method of the delicacy — obtained from the liver of
geese and ducks forced to swallow grain through a tube
inserted into the throat twice a day — has concluded that
'force-feeding as currently practised is a
threat to the health of the birds'. Scientists have
urged foie gras producers to adopt more appropriate farming
and feeding systems: a drastic change that risks sowing discontent and anger above all in
France, the largest producer.
For now these are non-binding recommendations. The real
problem would arise for producers and food lovers if the Fifteen
decided to adopt the study and its conclusions as the basis
for a legislative redefinition of the matter. The method currently used
produces an enlargement of the liver of ducks and geese of up to
ten times its normal size. After slaughter, the liver
is sold untreated or in the form of pâté. According to the
scientists, an 'extreme' solution would be a ban on
the production, importation and sale of foie gras produced
through force-feeding.