Simone Salvini: “I wash and rewash vegetables because they are sensitive”

Simone Salvini: “I wash and rewash vegetables because they are sensitive”

Food · ·

The chef Simone Salvini, whom Maurizio Crozza honoured with one of his irresistible caricature sketches, appeared today in person at the opening of Binaria, in Turin.

The opening of Binaria, the "centre commensale" of Don Luigi Ciotti's Gruppo Abele in Turin, could hardly have provided a more laugh-filled backdrop for Simone Salvini today. The video by Maurizio Crozza in which he mimics the affectations, gestures and manner of the vegetarian chef has gone viral, sparking a wave of comments ranging from amused to contentious.

Simone Salvini, who trained at Joia in Milan — a restaurant that has received a Michelin Star and Due Forchette from the Gambero Rosso — is capable of citing almond butter and prana with equal ease: "Organic products have a prana — he told us at Expo Milano 2015 — a superior intrinsic energy. I notice it when I transform certain ingredients through cooking; something magical happens. Prana is a Sanskrit term. It symbolises the vital energy present in every living form. In vegetables and plants, that energy must be valued and preserved. This is achieved by not overcooking the ingredients and not leaving them in the fridge for too long. The cook transfers it from nature to the human being through a respectful preparation." He, the chef, has just watched himself.

What does it feel like to see yourself — or watch yourself again — in Maurizio Crozza's interpretation?
Well… he made some moves I don't make! Am I really like that? I'm not, am I?

simone salvini, maurizio crozza
Chef Salvini watches the impression of him created by comedian Crozza

Of course, it's a caricature, and a caricature… exaggerates — that is, it emphasises people's traits… It's nevertheless fantastic that he chose you as the subject of one of his sketches. What are the milestones of your career as a chef?
Before meeting Pietro Leemann I thought I was just a cook — that was the late nineties. Twenty years ago. That's when I told myself: either I follow in those footsteps, or whatever I do will have no meaning.

How long did you work with him?
Six years, running the kitchen. I have to say that before meeting Pietro Leemann my profession was rich in many things, but it lacked real depth. Like a sun with countless rays that shed no light. It's thanks to Leemann that I began to find my own direction. And I have always been vegetarian.

And then?
Afterwards I started running itinerant courses all over Italy. I opened a restaurant in Rome…

…Which was a resounding success — the Ops!
Yes. Then three years ago I met Lucio Cavazzoni and the people from Alce Nero, and from there we started a partnership. Which is the reason I'm here, at the opening of this wonderful space with Don Luigi Ciotti…

You study Sanskrit and have a passion for the humanities. In what way do your humanistic studies influence your work? Have you ever thought of setting them aside?
On the contrary, they complement each other. It's thanks to them that I'm convinced the right food is vegetarian.

Vegetarian or vegan?
I don't like the word "vegan"; I describe myself as vegetarian.

There is a great deal of talk about plant sensitivity, with Mancuso's research, and some people remark, with amusement, that vegetarians therefore also kill plants.
No. I haven't yet formed a position on the matter, but the fact that plants have a sensitivity of their own is undeniable and I find it fascinating.

Maurizio Crozza has a phenomenal instinct. He picks up on the currents running through society and transposes them into hugely entertaining parodies. The fact that he decided to "paraphrase" you is conclusive proof of your impact on society. How did you react when you watched the Crozza video just now? Do you wash your vegetables?
Of course, I wash and rewash them! But I didn't see it straight away when it aired — I've just watched it here, now. Last night when my friends called to let me know, I preferred to carry on studying the book I was reading. I've now thanked him on social media! It's a game, it's very entertaining, but it's also a way of honouring the work of many people. I'm here today because what matters is that I'm here to understand with Don Luigi Ciotti how to move forward — we need to run some courses and work out how to go about things. There are some extraordinary rooms just behind here for doing all sorts of things. And then, this could be a place to hold events. Pizza is at the heart of what Berberè offers here at Binaria in Turin as well, but I'm considering the possibility of running individual themed evenings — dedicated to hazelnuts, for instance — and also offering a few cooked dishes. We'll see how. With Franco Berrino and the Fondazione Veronesi as well…