This is the Sardinia that people love most — at least those who seek to discover the true nature of a place, its deep heart, made up of culture, nature and tradition. It is not an easy route, and perhaps not for everyone, but these 200 km can be covered in stages and take you through a part of Sardinia by bicycle in a way that lets you enjoy sea, mountains and peace. This is the Supramonte tour: the real island.

Supramonte tour: 200 km of varied landscapes to discover Sardinia

This cycling itinerary sets off along the statale 125, well known to cyclists in Sardinia: the Orientale Sarda, a road characterised by very little traffic and unrivalled scenery. Silence, vivid colours and powerful scents. From Dorgali you climb to the thousand metres of Genna Silana, the highest point on the entire road, with a natural terrace suspended against the walls of the Supramonte in between, where extraordinary and unexpected panoramas unfold one after another — the Oddone valley, the view over the Gorroppu canyon (which we have already written about) and a glimpse of the blue Gulf of Orosei. Limestone peaks and the blue of the sea, the contrasts of the landscape, the island's two faces. Here, too, lie some of Italy's most beautiful beaches: Cala Mariolu and Cala Goloritzé.

A five per cent gradient gives way to a relaxing descent, and then the road climbs again, winding towards the peaks of the Gennargentu, passing through the villages of Urzulei and Talana, where perhaps the finest cured ham on the island is produced and where you are surrounded by almond trees (whose fruit will become excellent amaretti biscuits) and cork oak groves whose bark is transformed into traditional crafts.

Exploring the Supramonte on two wheels

The toughest stretch, reaching eight per cent, is the ascent of S'Arcu 'e S'Orostode, where you finally catch sight of the Gennargentu and find yourself breathless. This is the island's true nature, the area that preserves traditions and culture more than any other — a kind of border between Ogliastra and the Supramonte.

Another demanding climb — with a gradient of around six per cent, almost entirely constant — rises from 900 metres above sea level to 1,250 metres. Traffic is almost nonexistent, especially during the shoulder season, and near the Cantoniera Pira 'e Onne you will often encounter sheep. The rugged, rocky landscapes give way to downy oak woods ablaze with colour.

The truly arduous section comes to an end and the pedalling becomes easier; you descend to Fonni, which at a thousand metres is the highest village on the island, and where you can see the first murals — not found only in Orgosolo. Sardinia is also an island of excellent wines, and here you ride through vineyards of Cannonau that herald your arrival in Mamoiada and then Orgosolo.

A quick descent brings you to Oliena, among almond and olive trees, and then it's uphill again towards Punta Corrasi, the roof of the Supramonte. The final stretch leads to Galtellì, a small village that looks much like many others in this part of Sardinia, where you can wander for a break along quiet streets past small churches and stone houses. In Dorgali, stopping to buy one of the island's traditional crafts is a must: knives (the classic "sa pattada"), filigree jewellery and ceramics.

The last effort comes on the way out of the village, on the eastern slope of Monte Tuttavista — 5 km with a 250-metre difference in elevation — and then all that remains is to follow the Cedrino river back to Dorgali.

This itinerary winds through the Parco nazionale del Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu: a jewel and a source of pride for the island, a protected area for flora and fauna that encompasses several environments — both mountain and coastal — representative of the lands of Barbagia and Ogliastra.