Ancient villages, excellent wines, enchanting landscapes: we head to Oltrepò Pavese in search of relaxation and sustainable, low-environmental-impact wineries.
The Oltrepò Pavese is a land of wine producers: here ancient vineyards stretch across more than 13,000 hectares, tracing geometries that at this time of year offer enchanting landscapes and panoramas. We are in Lombardia, yet just a few kilometres from Emilia Romagna, in a territory that takes its name from the Po, Italy's longest river, which rises from Monviso and travels 673 kilometres before flowing into the Adriatic Sea and, crossing the province of Pavia for 113 kilometres from west to east, divides the flat strip from the hilly and mountainous area that takes precisely the name of Oltrepò. A place rich in traditions, products of excellence and tranquillity, which we rediscovered thanks to a short tour that allows visitors, while tasting its excellent wines, to also visit ancient villages and the historical and artistic heritage that characterises them.
We set off for Oltrepò Pavese: a strategically positioned geographical area shaped like a bunch of grapes, nestled between the Province of Piacenza and the Province of Alessandria, tapering to a point towards the Ligurian-Emilian Apennines. An in-between territory, rich and precious, with a centuries-old devotion to wine: the most widely cultivated grape varieties here are Croatina (4,000 hectares), Barbera (3,000), Pinot Nero (nearly 3,000), Riesling (1,500) and Moscato (500) — together accounting for 84 per cent of the entire viticultural surface of Oltrepò, which in practical terms means that almost every family in the area produces wine and often runs an estate with long-standing traditions.
But what wines does it produce? The range offered by the land of Oltrepò is a complete one that suits every food-and-wine pairing from starter to dessert; 7 denominations have earned Docg and Doc status: Oltrepò Pavese metodo classico Docg; Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese Doc, Buttafuoco dell'Oltrepò Pavese Doc, Pinot Grigio dell'Oltrepò Pavese Doc, Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepò Pavese Doc, Sangue di Giuda dell'Oltrepò Pavese Doc, Casteggio Doc.
To taste these labels, late October sees Storie di Vino take place on the scenic Ponte Coperto di Pavia, a historic and cultural landmark of the Lombard province: an event in which more than 30 Oltrepò Pavese wine producers take centre stage, allowing enthusiasts to raise a glass to excellence.
To taste these wines, the best idea is undoubtedly to go and explore the territory on a short tour, perhaps by bicycle — for the more active. Oltrepò covers around 1,000 square kilometres, so the whole area can easily be explored over a weekend. We highlight some villages not to be missed, interspersed with visits to wineries that also stand out for their careful and sustainable production.
Travelling from Milan and heading south, you will find yourself crossing the point where the Ticino and the Po converge, passing over the Ponte della Becca, a remarkable feat of civil engineering originally dating from 1912 and rebuilt after the war in 1950. Truly spectacular and majestic. Perfect for stunning photographs, especially at sunset.
Continuing further south, you can choose to head towards Broni and in particular the small but charming Canneto Pavese, in the Valle Scuropasso. In the hamlet of Monteveneroso, the small winery of Massimo Piovani was born. If you enjoy still wines and have an eye for sustainability even at the table, this is a must-stop. Here, vineyard management is carried out using low-environmental-impact practices in keeping with the principles of integrated farming; this approach is guided by the aim of limiting yields, avoiding forced production and safeguarding the hydrogeological balance of these delicate hillside slopes. The vineyards of this producer (above all Buttafuoco) are often characterised by gradients that make cultivation difficult, but the effort is rewarded by the certainty of obtaining particularly fine grapes to yield the prized wines of Oltrepò Pavese. Ask the owner to arrange a tasting among the vineyards: it will be a wonderful experience, and you will hear the story of someone who has devoted himself to this land and its wines out of deep passion.
Oltrepò is also a land of castles: at Montalto Pavese you can see — though not visit — one of the most famous in the area, now in private ownership; the views from up there are beautiful, as they are at Cigognola, a balcony over the plain, where another manor house stands.
Halfway between these two castles, you will come across another gem for lovers of fine wine. La Travaglina is a winery that sits on the first stretch of hills in the municipality of Santa Giuletta, in the heart of the Oltrepò Pavese hills, an area with a great winemaking tradition, particularly renowned for its production of sparkling Bonarda and sparkling wines (metodo classico) of excellent quality. Here they are working towards becoming organic producers and in the meantime are pursuing an agricultural policy aimed at