Nascetta is a grape variety whose roots run deep in the heart of the Langhe. It can be traced back to 1879, in Lorenzo Fantini's Monografia sulla viticoltura ed enologia nella provincia di Cuneo, which described it as a variety cultivated in Novello. Yet its destiny has been anything but straightforward: after the Second World War, Nascetta was progressively abandoned due to its low productivity and unpredictable nature.

Today, however, things are changing. Since the 1990s, some producers have rediscovered ancient vines still present in their vineyards and, with the support of the University of Turin, have launched research that confirmed its uniqueness as a native grape variety of the Langhe. This valorisation journey led, in 2010, to the recognition of the Doc (Denominazione di origine controllata) Langhe Nascetta, with a specific sub-zone in the municipality of Novello.

Today Nascetta is at the centre of a conservation and promotion project spearheaded in particular by the association Indigenous Langa, which brings together 21 producers. The goal is to raise awareness of this wine's potential, so that the Langhe too can boast a native white wine of their own, much as Arneis is for the neighbouring Roero.

A difficult grape, a fascinating wine

Calling Nascetta an "easy" grape variety would be a mistake. Its rebellious character makes it a complex grape to grow: it alternates generous vintages with poor ones, its canes are limp and difficult to manage, and yields are never consistent. But those who work with it patiently and devotedly are rewarded with a wine of a truly unique aromatic — or rather, semi-aromatic — profile.

At ripeness, Nascetta presents itself golden and luminous, with a crispness and an aromaticity reminiscent of Riesling. Its versatility in the cellar is remarkable: it can be vinified in steel to highlight its purity, aged in wood for greater complexity, or even macerated on the skins to draw out deep, oxidative notes.

Nascetta, production and figures

Nascetta's numbers remain modest compared to the great reds of the Langhe. Across the area, approximately 250,000 bottles of Nascetta are produced in total, shared among 50 producers, while Barolo exceeds 15 million. Among the producers most committed to promoting Nascetta is the winery of Anna Maria Abbona, who at Monforte d'Alba works the variety with a philosophy of purity: fermentation in steel, without skin contact, to bring out its essential characteristics. Other producers, meanwhile, experiment with macerations, wood ageing and sparkling wine production, demonstrating this variety's versatility.

A fine example from this side of the spectrum comes from the estate Rivetto, which on the hills of Sinio has embraced biodynamics and is studying how to adapt Nascetta to new climatic conditions. The experimental winemaking employs a range of techniques, from skin maceration to bâtonnage on the lees, to produce wines that combine structure and freshness.

Nascetta, like all varieties grown in the Langhe, is confronting the effects of climate change. Where south-facing exposure was once ideal, vineyards are now shifting to higher altitudes and cooler positions in order to preserve balance and acidity. An approach not unlike that adopted for Riesling, with which Nascetta shares certain affinities.

A future in the spotlight?

Nascetta's journey is still unfolding, but its potential is undeniable. This white wine from the Langhe, with its distinctive personality and its ability to express the territory, could carve out an increasingly important place for itself in the Piedmontese wine landscape. The challenge is to make it known and appreciated, by celebrating its history, its biodiversity and the passionate work of all those who continue to believe in its future.