Lago di Braies in the upper Val Pusteria is one of the most sought-after destinations in the Dolomites, but the mass of tourists who flock there is putting its balance at risk. The decision has been made to protect it by banning cars.
Those who have visited it remember its crystal-clear waters reflecting the Dolomites, a Unesco world heritage site, and the picture-postcard landscape that surrounds it: this is Lago di Braies, in the upper Val Pusteria, in Trentino-Alto Adige, a natural paradise to be discovered through splendid trekking routes or relaxing boat trips. One of the most visited and well-known mountain destinations, in recent years it has been overwhelmed by visitors, and for this reason the municipal administration has decided to protect the area, a heritage belonging to everyone.
This corner of the valley, long magnificent, has in recent years been besieged by tourists who discovered it through the well-known television series, and so the local administration has, since 2018, decided to adopt measures to regulate motor traffic. From 10 July to 10 September, the road from the Ferrara hamlet to the lake, which bears the passage of 7,000 vehicles a day during the summer months, will be closed to motor traffic, probably between 10:00 and 15:00. Visitors will be able to leave their cars in a pay car park with 240 spaces. From there, two options exist for reaching Lago di Braies:
During the closure, only line 442 buses coming from Dobbiaco via Villabassa and a shuttle service departing from Monguelfo will be permitted to pass through. The shuttle fare is expected to be 3 euros per person per journey for all guests aged 6 and over.
The photographs in this article were taken by Edoardo Marcolongo, a Cai-qualified hiking guide and passionate photographer who led us along the trails that set off from Braies towards the peaks of the Dolomites.
Read also: I suoni delle Dolomiti 2019, il festival che porta la magia della musica in montagna compie 25 anni
What we recommend, to truly enjoy a unique natural spectacle, is to reach the lake as described above but above all not to stop at its shores: from Braies, the Alta via number 1 sets off, leading to the Rifugio Biella. This is a truly impressive route, though suited to hikers with a certain level of experience: along the trail there are some exposed sections that could prove challenging. But for those who are able to tackle it, what awaits is a varied landscape that begins with the clear waters of Braies, passes through the deep green of the woods wrapped in a magical atmosphere, and then climbs up the rocky basin leading to the vast, arid and stony plateau where the refuge stands, amid wild beauty. The refuge is a rather spartan place — nothing that hikers are not used to — where one can nonetheless indulge in the joy of gazing upon what are perhaps the most beautiful mountains in the world. Alta via number 1 does not end here: it runs all the way from Braies to Belluno, a long and spectacular trek for true enthusiasts only.
For those who wish to continue, there are other trails departing from this refuge: a splendid one is trail number 3, which runs from the Biella to the Rifugio Vallandro: in these roughly 4 hours of walking, everything that is wonderful about the mountains is on offer. In addition to the usual precautions before setting off — checking the weather forecast above all — it is worth knowing that due to the enormous landslide of 2016 the route underwent a diversion that actually makes it easier, and that along the trail, owing to some exposed passages, you will find chains in place for hikers' safety. For one last magnificent effort, in less than an hour above the Vallandro, you reach a plateau where the panorama takes in all the finest peaks in a single sweeping glance. Perhaps the most thrilling spectacle you will ever have seen.
The Parco naturale Fanes-Senes-Braies, established in 1980 — covering an area of more than 25,000 hectares — is one of the largest parks in Alto Adige. At first glance this vast area appears to be characterised solely by high peaks and rock faces, yet within it lies a territory of alpine pastures and plateaus that differ greatly from one another in morphology and landscape. The phenomenon of karst is clearly visible throughout the park in its most varied forms: limestone pavements, fissures, shafts, sinkholes and caverns. But what exactly is it? Karst occurs when the carbon dioxide contained in water attacks and dissolves much of the limestone formations dating back to the Jurassic period, shaping the mountain and creating wonderful features. Here in Fanes-Senes-Braies we find all the most characteristic forms of the karst phenomenon: limestone pavements, fissures, shafts and sinkholes, in which permanent or, far more often, temporary alpine lakes frequently form. It is here that Lago di Braies was formed — a natural basin in whose waters the massive rock faces of the Croda del Beco are reflected — as well as Lago di Dobbiaco, whose southern shore is characterised by wet meadows, important habitats for many species of aquatic birds.
Read also: Parco nazionale delle Dolomiti Bellunesi, storia, flora e fauna
Within the nature park, two zones are easily identifiable, each with distinct characteristics: the Braies Dolomites area, where the highest peaks rise — such as the Croda Rossa (3,146 metres) — and the zone of the great plateaus of Senes, Fanes and Fosses. In both, various bird species can be admired, including the rock ptarmigan, the capercaillie, the hazel grouse and the black grouse, the last of which favours areas of mountain pine and rhododendron scrub. As for the flora, the woodlands are composed primarily of Norway spruce, Swiss stone pine, Scots pine and larch. In the understorey, shrubs such as bilberry, cowberry and rhododendron grow. At higher altitudes, mountain pine appears. The woodlands are home to roe deer, pine martens, foxes, stoats, mountain hares, nutcrackers and also some birds of prey such as the sparrowhawk and the northern goshawk.
In the valley there are many flowers and plants: arnica, gentian, orange hawkweed and many other species. Above 2,500 metres the vegetation changes and becomes more sparse, but the following can be spotted: alpine germander, Clypeola jonthlaspi, Dolomites yarrow, edelweiss and Rhaetian poppy. If you are lucky, in the cracks and crevices of the rocks you may find the Dolomites rampion, Dolomites cinquefoil, evergreen sedge or glaucous saxifrage. The ultimate prize is managing to catch sight of the golden eagle, the common raven, chamois and even ibex.