Little known to mass tourism, Pistoia did not become the 2017 Italian capital of culture by chance. Surprising artistic gems in a human-scale city. 5 wonders not to be missed.
Long overshadowed by nearby Florence, Pistoia, 2017 Italian capital of culture, now has its chance to make itself known and impress. A human-scale city with remarkable artistic treasures, and the calm and good living of a bygone era. Culture, excellent food and tranquillity in 5 tips for a visit that may well surprise you — and make you forget that it was once dismissively nicknamed "Tristoia".
Located near the railway station, to the south of the city, it presents itself as a classic military fortress now surrounded by a park. The locals will tell you that it has fallen into serious disrepair of late, and that is true — but don't let that put you off: cross the small bridge, go in, try to work out which route to follow (it's not straightforward) and explore. It is possible to walk its full extent among the weeds and shrubs, thanks to the walkways that offer fine views over the city in an almost surreal peace. Tourists are few, or entirely absent, and you can admire the poppies growing from nowhere, caper plants and ancient wells, making your way up and down the various sections of the Fortress on a tour that transports you to a distant time. It is not the first stop for first-time visitors to Pistoia, but we recommend it if you are looking for an authentic "vision" of the city. It is open in the morning only, until 13:30.
Fairly anonymous from the outside, this now-deconsecrated church is a fine example of how ancient and modern art can coexist in harmony. The church was dedicated to Sant'Antonio Abate (of the famous "St Anthony's fire") but is known as del Tau after the tau-shaped staff the saint used to support himself. Step inside and the contrast with the exterior bursts into view: it is entirely frescoed — the works are in reasonably good condition — and within these splendid walls some sculptural works by Marino Marini have found a home. Marini was the great internationally renowned sculptor born in Pistoia, whose museum stands beside the Chiesa del Tau. A mix of artworks from very different eras that successfully enter into dialogue within a confined space.
Pistoia is one of the places where you can admire examples of this technique, which in the first half of the fifteenth century the Florentine sculptor Luca Della Robbia revived in Italy and which was later taken up by members of his family: his nephew Andrea and his son Giovanni, as well as the disciples Benedetto and Santi Buglioni, who, having learned the secret from them, set up a rival workshop.
The technique involved the application of a glossy tin-based glaze which, specially prepared and fired in a kiln together with the clay, forms a hard, shiny film that still allows these fragile works to be preserved outdoors today. The addition of other minerals gave the pieces their varying colours. One of the greatest masterpieces of the "genre" is by Luca: the Visitazione of 1445 in S. Giovanni Fuorcivitas, but there is also the Madonna con Bambino tra angeli made for the cathedral portico by Andrea della Robbia, not to mention that Pistoia also houses what is considered the "swan song" of Della Robbia ware: the polychrome decoration of the frieze of the ospedale del Ceppo by Santi Buglioni and Giovanni Della Robbia.
On a tour of the city, when you reach Piazza Santo Spirito, we recommend you look up: from here you get an excellent view of the dome of the basilica della Madonna dell'Umiltà, built presumably between the twelfth and eighteenth centuries to a design by Giorgio Vasari. If it seems familiar, that is because the model that inspired the architect is manifestly the dome of Santa Maria del Fiore, as interpreted by Michelangelo in the Basilica di San Pietro. Standing 59 metres tall, it would afford a wonderful view over the city, but it cannot be visited: since its construction it has always had structural problems and, despite modern restoration work, it is not possible to climb it. In the "rivalry" between Pistoia and Florence, here too stands a dome of immense architectural value, with nothing to envy its more famous cousin.
Pistoia is a quiet city, with no enormous tourist crowds, even if being named 2017 Italian capital of culture has brought an increase in visitor numbers. You will therefore have no difficulty visiting it at leisure and fully enjoying everything it has to offer. The recommendation, however, is to see its most famous and central square at dawn or dusk: on every side you will be amazed by what you find before you, by the light and by the perfection. Here stand the cathedral of San Zeno and its bell tower, the Battistero di San Giovanni in corte, the Palazzo dei vescovi, the Palazzo comunale and the Palazzo pretorio. If you are lucky, you may be the only ones taking in the spectacle — the key is not to go on a Saturday, the day of the great city market, which fills the city and conceals its wonders.
