Sardinia, island of trails: paths once walked by miners, shepherds and pilgrims, now destined for the wayfarers of the new millennium, to reconnect with nature and the spirit
Let us discover the walking trails of Sardinia, following the sun-drenched paths once trodden by shepherds, miners and pilgrims who, over the centuries, travelled the many routes now brought together under the Noi camminiamo in Sardegna project. An ambitious initiative, promoted by the Assessorato del Turismo della Regione Sardegna and the publisher Terre di Mezzo, to reveal the most intimate and authentic face of this magical island — as enveloping as it is welcoming. So not just paradisiacal beaches and crystal-clear sea for summer holidays: in Sardinia a new tourism model, slow and mindful, is coming to the fore, one that bets on experience, on encounter with local communities and the rediscovery of traditions. Within this vision, the eight itineraries and the network of seven destinations on offer play a key role, making this region "the island of trails".
"A walk in the middle of nature would be enough — stopping for a moment to listen, stripping away the superfluous and understanding that not much is needed to live well." The words of writer Mario Rigoni Stern remind us how vital time spent in nature truly is. And this is the philosophy of Noi camminiamo in Sardegna, which offers seven trails with a religious and spiritual character, but which — it goes without saying — can be experienced in an entirely secular way. Some are still in the development phase and all share the fact of having grown from the ground up, from individuals or associations who have voluntarily worked to bring these itineraries to life.
To give a sense of the different atmospheres and variety of places one encounters, we briefly describe a few of the itineraries. Take, for example, the magnificent Cammino minerario di Santa Barbara, a thematic route of 500 kilometres named after the patron saint of miners.
We are in the south-western part of the island: the starting and finishing point is Iglesias. The route winds through Sardinia's geomining park, along ancient paths, mule tracks and disused railways, threading together abandoned villages where miners once lived, passing through tunnels perched above sheer drops to the sea and breathtaking landscapes. A trail that pays homage to the geological and speleological heritage of Sardinia — which, it should be recalled, is one of the oldest fragments of Europe, containing rocks dating back 500 million years. A route also steeped in a strong historical and human dimension, as attested by the accounts of former miners who today lead guided visits at many of the sites.
The Cammino di Santu Jacu (St James) branches out across the entire island for a total of 1,600 kilometres. As with the Spanish pilgrim routes — in particular the Camino de Santiago de Compostela — there is a credential, recognition of a testimonium, and the traditional symbols of St James, namely the scallop shell and yellow arrow, are used for signage. It can be walked, cycled or ridden on horseback.
Another route of extraordinary appeal — and the most recently completed — is the Cammino delle 100 torri, which circumnavigates the island across its 1,284 km divided into 70 stages.
Alongside the seven itineraries, eight pilgrimage destinations are promoted, known for festivals, processions and occasions rooted in religious tradition. These are places we might consider spiritual oases. Among them are Dorgali, Galtellì, Gesturi-Genoni-Laconi, Sant'Antioco, Luogosanto, Orgosolo and Borutta. Evocative villages where rites and traditions intertwine around the figures of saints and blessed souls.
Among the destinations, in the province of Sassari we find the church of San Pietro di Sorres with its adjacent monastery, a place that in some respects resembles a cultural hub, with projects linked to the promotion of social life and that networks with local realities to promote a little-known territory afflicted by the problem of depopulation.
We are in the north-east of the island, in the Melogu area (literally "middle place") and more precisely in the municipality of Borutta, where around 270 people live. The surrounding landscape is that of the valley of volcanoes: the terrain is dotted with ancient formations that at first glance can be mistaken for simple hills. Right at the summit of the hill of Sorres stands the church dating back to the Romanesque period (of which it is a splendid Sardinian example from an architectural point of view), while the monastery has housed a community of Benedictine monks since 1950. Travellers passing through can find board and lodging here, as well as the excellent craft beer Sorres, "la birra d'abbazia".
Nearby, not to be missed is the Grotta Ulàri, formed in limestone rock dating from the Miocene period (between 7 and 12 million years ago). Inside, five different species of bats live and breed, making it the largest mixed breeding colony on the island, designated an S.I.C. (Sito di Interesse Comunitario). It can only be visited with a guide who, equipped with a helmet and headtorch, will lead you through a unique experience suitable for younger visitors too.
Several interesting and straightforward trails set off from the sanctuary, even if they are not yet signposted. A couple of hours' walk brings you to the summit of Monte Palao, from which a spectacular view opens over the valley of volcanoes, while a slightly longer circular route (16 kilometres) leads to the splendid Nuraghe de santu Antine at Torralba, one of the best-preserved nuraghi in Sardinia.
The landscape is shaped by sheep farming and agriculture. You walk along dirt tracks or minor roads, skirting meadows, dry-stone walls and woodland, while here and there ancient traces emerge such as the domus de janas, the prehistoric rock-cut tombs typical of pre-nuragic Sardinia.
For a village like Borutta, trail-based tourism represents a precious opportunity to revitalise the territory through a virtuous, year-round economy, with a cultural drive that makes it possible to focus on innovation and sustainability. Around local traditions, cuisine, small museums and the stories of a place's history, a vital dialogue ignites between inhabitants and wayfarers whenever a stop is made. Hospitality nourishes the journey (and Sardinian hospitality is sacred!) and the encounter brings new life to the territory being crossed.