Historic villas, monumental gardens, sumptuous castles and ancient abbeys are just some of the wonders to discover on a weekend in the Colli Euganei.
Geologically speaking, the Colli Euganei are approximately one hundred or so mountain ridges whose height never exceeds 600 metres. In practice, you will find yourself facing a cluster of gentle hills characterised by a vivid green and by lush cultivation (vineyards and olive groves above all) that together create a truly evocative atmosphere whose beauty will catch you off guard. The geological history of this area (we are in the Province of Padua, but also just a few kilometres from Vicenza, Rovigo and Venice) has made possible the formation of an extraordinary biodiversity that is also safeguarded thanks to the establishment of the Parco regionale dei Colli Euganei.
We suggest a tour, easily doable by bicycle too, to visit some of the most beautiful places in the area: a mix of castles, abbeys, gardens and wonderful villas that will make you want to plan your next weekend in the Colli Euganei. For those who want to travel in a completely sustainable way, it is possible to reach the area by train (the nearest stations are Montegrotto Terme, Este or Monselice) and then hire a bike, or follow one of the numerous trails to explore on foot.
First stop at Teolo, near Abano Terme, where the Abbazia di Praglia stands, founded between the 11th and 12th centuries and today home to Benedictine friars. The position is enchanting and accounts for much of the charm of this enormous complex: all around, magnificent vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see, producing the wine sold in the monastery shop. The entire complex is open to visitors: the abbey church of Santa Maria Assunta has an unusually harmonious façade and a beautiful frescoed dome. The monastery is divided into four cloisters — the double cloister, also known as the clausura, the botanical, the hanging and the rustic — which you can admire during one of the guided tours offered by the friars; opening times are available here.
Inside there is also a workshop for restoring ancient books, where volumes damaged in the Florence flood were "treated", and the evocative monumental library, which houses the Fogazzaro collection. Everything is well tended and welcoming, and so are the friars. It is truly a place to take a break from everything else for a few hours of harmony and peace. The only sound you will hear is the deafeningly loud chirping of the cicadas.
About 12 kilometres from the Abbazia di Praglia, in Battaglia Terme, stands the castello del Catajo, reachable by bicycle along the Colli Euganei ring route (E2). From the outside alone, from the particular architectural structure that characterises it, you will sense you are somewhere out of the ordinary. The Catajo is indeed a one-of-a-kind residence that over time has served as a princely villa and military quarters, literary gathering place and imperial palace. In short: anything but a conventional castle, as the guide — whom we recommend following — can tell you in order to better understand its history. Built to celebrate the glory of the Obizzi family and expanded by the same family in the 17th and 18th centuries, the Catajo was subsequently transformed into a ducal palace by the Habsburg-Este family of Modena and finally chosen as the imperial summer residence of the Habsburg emperors of Austria.
The piano nobile in particular is entirely and magnificently frescoed by Giovanni Battista Zelotti, one of the most celebrated exponents of Renaissance Venetian painting and a disciple of Paolo Veronese: each room masterfully recounts the events that brought the Obizzi such fame and power. The green spaces, the Giardino delle delizie, and the elephant fountain are no less beautiful. There is also a fish pond, in which the castle is reflected, and which at this time of year is home to hundreds of magnificent water lilies. To make the most of costs and visits, the best option is to purchase the combined ticket that allows entry to the castello del Catajo, the Giardino Barbarigo and Villa dei Vescovi: it costs 26 euros and can be used within 6 months.
The next stop is Valsanzibio, approximately 6 kilometres from the previous one, to admire the monumental garden of Valsanzibio also known as villa Barbarigo, Pizzoni Ardemani: more than 15 hectares of parkland, fountains and water features that together create a rare example of a seventeenth-century symbolic garden. It is easy to find artists painting along its pathways, inspired by the wonder all around them. The garden has over 350 years of history: it was created between 1665 and 1696 by one of the wealthiest and most important Venetian families, the Barbarigo family, as a thanksgiving to God for overcoming the plague of 1630/31.
Perhaps the defining feature of this vast and magnificent green space is the presence of the fountains and water features, which are still working today and highly spectacular. But equally remarkable is the idea underpinning the project: it is conceived as a long allegorical walk intended to convey to the visitor a positive message about a life in which difficulties are faced but a solution can always be found. In the course of one's existence, it is good to stop and meditate from time to time, because time is precious and must be lived intensely, with joy, in anticipation of eternity. As you stroll along the pathways, make absolutely sure not to miss some of the centuries-old trees that "live" here: Valsanzibio is home to over 800 trees of more than 100 different species. Many of the original trees planted between 1664 and 1669 are still present today (more than 60 per cent of the current plants form part of Bernini's original design, as he was the architect of the site).
In Luvigliano, still less than 10 kilometres from the previous stop, there is a beautiful Renaissance Venetian villa, Villa dei Vescovi. The ever-present magnificent vineyards all around, and the reassuring views of the Colli Euganei, make this property and its gardens a popular destination even for a simple day of relaxation. As well as visiting the villa, whose interiors are entirely frescoed by the Flemish painter Lambert Sustris with triumphs, trophies and bucolic landscapes, you can treat yourself to a food and wine break at the "Strada del vino e Colli Euganei" wine bar on the ground floor, where it is possible to taste the excellent local wines. And that is not all: perhaps not everyone knows that this is also an area producing fine oils. In our view, the highlight of this property is the external loggias, where the frescoes continue, so skilfully designed as to blend seamlessly with the real atmosphere of the Colli Euganei. Villa Vescovi is now a Fai property and is therefore frequently the venue for events and initiatives for tourists and families.
The views across the Colli Euganei are among the most evocative you can admire. Whatever season you choose for a weekend in this area, the pianoro del Mottolone is certainly a fantastic place to stop and capture a sunset over the hills with your camera. It is also perfect as the starting point for an excursion: from here you can head towards the historic centre of Arquà Petrarca, the historic village at the foot of Monte Piccolo and Monte Ventolone, famous for the small Lago della Costa, one of the prehistoric pile-dwelling sites that form a Unesco World Heritage Site; as well as, of course, for having long been home to the famous poet.
In May you will find the broom in bloom. In September the vineyards are almost ready for harvest. In late autumn, the famous foliage. Ideal for a cycling stop if you have chosen to travel on two wheels, the Mottolone also lies along the route of the cammino di Sant'Antonio for walkers.